Champagne Bollinger P.N. AYC 18 750ml

The NV PN AYC 2018 is the newest edition in Bollinger’s range of single village-based Champagnes, a series of wines created by former Chef de Caves Gilles Descôtes, who passed away earlier this year. Tense and vibrant, with notable saline intensity, the AYC (based on Aÿ) sizzles with energy. Dried pear, crushed flowers, mint, sage, chalk and light pastry notes all race across the palate. This release is 53% 2018 and 47% reserve wines, a big part of which are Bollinger’s famous reserve magnums (in this case 2009 Verzenay Pinot), plus dollops of 2017 and 2016 wines. The 2018 was done in equal parts oak and tank. Dosage is 6 grams per liter, but the impression is of a slightly drier style. The combination of a very warm base vintage blended with a high proportion of reserve wines yields a Champagne of notable complexity and texture.

Score: 92 points -- Antonio Galloni, Vinous, 2023