The 2023 Holdaway Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc hails from Dillon's Point, and I am starting to understand very clearly that this little subregion, which is on the flats as the Wairau Valley flows into the ocean, produces Sauvignon Blanc fruit that is pungently laden with thiols, as this wine appears to be. The palate has enoki mushroom, green apple skins, gooseberry, hints of broom and tatami mat, plus layers of fennel, white pepper and cassis. It is concentrated and good, though kind of overt, but it is long and gently shaped by chalky phenolics through the finish. It pushes the upper level of thiol funk for me, but I like it. It's balanced. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
Score: 92 points -- Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate, 2023